Robin Phillips Jewelry

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Cloisonné and Champlevé Enamel

cloisonne broochThe term Cloisonné is derived from the French cloisons, meaning "partitioned cells". Champlevé refers to a technique where a recess is made in the silver either by incising, etching or making a framework that is soldered onto a fine silver plate.

Thin metal wires of either fine silver or gold are first laid down to separate the enamels from one another. Wet enamels (made of finely ground glass and lead) are "painted" on to the plate of fine silver using the cloisons as dividers.

After the first layer of colour is applied the piece is ready to be kiln fired at somewhere between 760 - 850 degrees Celsius. I always counter-enamel after the first firing, which is essential to ensure the bond between enamel and metal stays strong and prevents future cracking. The enamels continue to be built up and fired repeatedly until the colours become vibrant and there is a feeling of depth to the piece. Each piece is usually fired over twenty times. Unlike with pottery, each piece is always fired on its own.

The piece then needs to be 'taken back'. Using a series of diamond files the piece is gently filed (from coarse to very fine) to remove any excess enamel and to reveal the cloisons. Then a series of diamond papers up to 12,000 grit are used to clarify the surface. The piece is then cleaned with a glass brush, allowed to dry and placed near the kiln to warm up for its final firing.

This last firing is to give the glassy finish enamels are known for. The final depth of the finished enamel is only .7mm (excluding the depth of the silver).

Enamelling is a labour intensive art and not without risk, as silver has a relatively low melting point. The enamelist must be vigilant in order to ensure that the work is not lost during the firing process.

 

All jewelry and photographs are by Robin Phillips and may not be used without written permission